AHAs and BHAs.
And what's with all the As?
Happy Valentine’s Day! Let’s talk about why everyone loves AHAs and BHAs and maybe also confirm we know what they are, lol.
First things first …
AHA = alpha hydroxy acid
BHA = beta hydroxy acid
Now we know why there are so many As.
Alpha and beta hydroxy acids are chemical exfoliants that help dissolve dead skin cells on the skin’s surface, along with the intercellular matrix holding those cells together. This generally means smoother, brighter, clearer skin – we love!
Sooo, what’s the difference? AHAs are naturally occurring and usually found in things like fruit, nuts, milk, etc. AHAs are water soluble and do a majority of their work towards the top layer of the skin. The big 3 most talked about are glycolic, lactic and mandelic acid.
Glycolic – we love her for cell turnover because she has the smallest molecular structure and can work deeper than other AHA siblings. It’s also a favorite for brightening and smoothing skin texture (read: minimizing signs of aging). Glycolic is small but mighty, though, and can work quickly. Take baby steps and intro this one gradually, especially if your skin is sensitive or thin. I’ve used and like the SkinCeuticals Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight treatment, and am also curious about Prequel’s Multi-Acid Milk Peel, which has 15% glycolic.
Lactic – a gentler option that’s great for dry skin. Lactic acid helps increase the skin’s natural moisturizers and epidermal barrier lipids (i.e. the moisture barrier). Its lightening benefits can also help improve discoloration. I personally don’t have as much experience with lactic-forward at-home products, but I have used the Dr. Dennis Gross vitamin C serum in the past and it happens to be formulated with lactic.
Mandelic – one of my personal favorites for addressing texture as well as acne. It has the largest molecular size, which means she works a bit slower than other AHAs. It’s definitely on the gentler side, but it’s still best practice to ease mandelic into your routine and begin with lower strengths. My ride or dies are the mandelic serums from Face Reality and Sofie Pavitt, an NYC esthetician I adore.
Can you even with this branding? My marketing heart swoons.
On to BHAs. They’re known for having strong antibacterial properties and are often recommended for oily and/or problematic skin (think acne). A key difference is that BHAs are oil-soluble, meaning they can work into our pores and dissolve sebum (oil) and debris (dirt, bacteria, etc.). Salicylic is the most common and often prescribed for acne clients because it can break up unwanted oil that’s clogging pores. Salicylic finds its way into so many exfoliants, the most viral/well-known likely being the Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant.
(A note about BHAs: unless your skin is super oily and/or acne-prone, a BHA-forward formula may end up stripping your skin of good things more than it helps.)
Key things to remember with exfoliants!
‘Too much of a good thing’ could not be truer here. Always start gentle, and easy into your desired (or suggested) frequency.
Mixing and matching isn’t a hard ‘no’, but it’s best to get advice from a professional on exactly how to do so.
Check any allergies against ingredients (always, not just with AHAs and BHAs). For example, mandelic acid is derived from bitter almonds, so not a great suggestion for someone that has a nut or almond allergy.
The biggest heart hands go to you for being here. Hoping you all show your skin some love this Valentine’s weekend. ❤